Signals from the Mountains: A General, a Shrine, and the Whispers of Fate

 


By Col Guljit Singh Chadha, Veteran
Former OC, 214 Field Workshop, North Sikkim, Former Registrar Panjab University

Nestled in the rugged terrain of Sikkim lies not just a strategic military zone but also a region steeped in mystery, faith, and folklore. During my tenure in the Eastern Himalayas as Officer Commanding of 214 Field Workshop and Divisional Troops Workshop at Gangtok from 1997 to 1999, I heard a poignant anecdote that predated my posting—one that continues to echo through the mountains and among the troops stationed there.

The General’s Final Visit

In 1993, Lt Gen Jameel Mahmood, then the General Officer Commanding-in-Chief (GOC-in-C) Eastern Command, embarked on an official visit to the Sikkim sector. Tradition held that all visiting senior officers paid obeisance at the revered Baba Harbhajan Singh Shrine near Nathula Pass—a soldier saint believed to still serve the Indian Army after death.

But time was pressing. The General reportedly declined the customary visit, saying he would make it on his next trip. That decision, as some would later say, might have been his first missed signal.

With the weather over Sikkim deteriorating, air traffic control withheld clearance for helicopter movement. The General was advised to use this delay to visit the shrine, a suggestion offered perhaps more out of reverence than regulation. Yet again, he declined, brushing aside any implication of superstition.

Determined to adhere to his tight schedule, he chose to travel by road to Siliguri, planning to fly out from there. But fate, as it seemed, had other plans. Midway through the journey, his vehicle—reportedly a Jonga—suffered a mechanical failure. The convoy was forced to halt. Once more, the officers suggested he use this pause to consider visiting Baba’s shrine. The General, a man of logic and action, stood firm: “I am not superstitious.”

Eventually, weather clearance was still pending, but the urgency of his itinerary prevailed. Lt Gen Mahmood instructed his pilot to proceed with the helicopter sortie at his own risk.

The Crash in Bhutan

Tragically, that sortie was his last. On 7 May 1993, the Indian Air Force Mi-8 helicopter carrying Lt Gen Jameel Mahmood, his wife, and six others crashed near Paro, Bhutan, killing everyone on board. The inquiry later suggested a loss of engine power shortly after takeoff, but the exact cause remained unclear. The Eastern Command had lost its commander, and the Army had lost a gallant leader.

Baba Harbhajan Singh – The Soldier Who Never Left

Amidst these tragic events looms the ever-watchful presence of Baba Harbhajan Singh, whose story is one of unwavering duty—even in death.

A sepoy in the 23rd Battalion of the Punjab Regiment, Harbhajan Singh drowned in 1968 while escorting a mule column near the Indo-China border. But legends say he returned in spirit, guiding and warning fellow soldiers through dreams. Over time, he came to be revered as “Saint Baba”, with his own shrine erected near Nathula.

Soldiers report sightings and encounters, and it's customary to keep his uniform and gear ready every day. His annual “leave” is observed on 11 September, when a seat is reserved for him on a train to his village in Kuka, Kapurthala (Punjab). Soldiers contribute to a fund for his family, honoring him as they would a living comrade.

Faith, Fate, and the Fog of the Hills

Skeptics may scoff at such tales. The military is a bastion of discipline, technology, and reason. Yet, in the high Himalayas, where clouds move like curtains over invisible valleys and the wind whispers old stories, faith often finds its place beside duty.

The tale of Lt Gen Jameel Mahmood’s final journey, as recounted by officers and jawans over steaming cups of chai in snowbound barracks, isn’t merely about a tragic crash. It’s about how traditions, beliefs, and subtle signals from the land often intersect with the lives of those who guard it.

Whether one believes in Baba Harbhajan or not, his presence looms large—an eternal sentinel of Sikkim, and perhaps, a gentle reminder to heed the signals that mountains send.

Have you experienced the legends of the Indian Army in the Himalayas? Share your stories in the comments below.

Published in memory of the brave souls lost in the Eastern Himalayas.

Location: Chandigarh, India

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